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TREKS IN PERU- PROGRAMS OF OUR PARTNER

HUASCARAN CLIMBING TOUR

Peruvian Andes AdventuresStart: daily, best time of the year May - September
Duration:
8 days/ 7 nights (before 2 preparation hikes)
Grade:
hard
Min. participants: 1 person

You do need to be very well acclimatized to the altitude to climb Huascarán. You spend 4 days sleeping above 5000m and this is very demanding and tiring for the body. Without sufficient acclimatization the chances of becoming ill on the mountain are high, or you may experience a complete loss of energy.
We recommend that our Huascarán clients take a 6 day trek which includes crossing 2 high passes and a high campsite, and then a 4 day climb of Pisco 5750m for additional acclimatization and strength. We have used this program with most of our Huascarán clients and have found that it gives them an excellent acclimatization and fitness base for the days on Huascarán.

PREPARATION

Recommendation: PREPARATION TREK 1
Santa Cruz Trek (6 days/5 nights)
Santa Cruz Ulta Trek (8 days/7 nights)

Recommendation: PREPARATION TREK 2
Santa Cruz Pisco Trek (5 days/4 nights)

DETAILED PROGRAM

Day 1: Rest day in Huaraz to prepare for Huasacrán climb.

Day 2: Drive 1½ hours from Huaraz to Musho. Walk for 4 hours steady up to Base Camp (4350m).

Day 3: Rest day in Base Camp while porters establish the high camps. **** If the group is less than 3 clients, this rest day can be deleted. The extra day is needed for large groups to carry all the equipment up to high camps, or extra for a bad weather day.

Day 4: Climb on moraine and rocks, some parts steep for 3 hours until we reach the ice. Steady climb on ice, not too steep for 2 more hours to High Camp 1 (5260m). Porters carry tents, food and ropes but you need to carry your personal gear, climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag.

Day 5: Climb to High Camp 2. This route is the most dangerous part of the ascent, with the possibility of serac avalanches and we move quickly in some areas. Near to the garganta (throat) between Huascarán Sur and Norte there are usually 2 large crevasses to cross.. You may have to climb 60deg to 70deg. on ice up the wall on the far side of the crevasses. 1 hour is technical climbing, and steep. (6000m) Trek last for 5 to 6 hours.

Day 6: Leave at 1 am to climb to the summit. The route starts with 250m of 40deg to 45dg. Slope, and then usually the slope is easier after that, with a long walk to the top. Care is required though because there are crevasses all the way to the top. Time to the summit 6 to 8 hours. Return to High Camp 2. An 11 to 12 hour day.

Day 7: Return to Base Camp for 6 to 7 hours.

Day 8: Walk to Musho 3 hours, then return to Huaraz.

Note: If you are organizing an independent trek you may be sufficiently well acclimatized to just make the 6 or 7 day climb of Huascaran with us. We would always recommend however that you climb one other peak first before Huascarán.

Peruvian Andes Adventures website e-mail to Peruvian Andes Adventures online-request

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